Rome, ItalyThe definitive Roman trattoria in Trastevere — no reservations, red-checked tablecloths, carbonara and cacio e pepe made exactly as they should be, and house wine served in carafes. Arrive at 12:30 or 19:30 and queue outside; it's always worth the wait.
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The city's finest supplì (Roman fried rice balls) — a queue-worthy street food institution near the Campo de' Fiori that has been serving crispy, molten-centered supplì al telefono since 1978. The chickpea fritters and fried salt cod are equally legendary.
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Part deli, part restaurant, part wine cellar — Roscioli is the most important address in Roman food culture. A counter groaning with 300 cheeses and cured meats leads to a dining room where the carbonara, amatriciana, and anchovy dishes are arguably the best in the city.
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Rome's most theatrical morning market — an open-air produce market in a piazza dominated by the hooded statue of Giordano Bruno (who was burned here as a heretic in 1600). Fresh fruit, herbs, flowers, and local vendors until noon; the piazza becomes a bar scene at night.